Gemstones
Select Emeralds, Rubies, and Sapphires
The three most widely-recognized non-diamond gemstones, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, typically have some mineral traces or inclusions. You’ll have a hard time finding rare (and very expensive) slightly-included or flawless gems. But you shouldn’t worry too much; the jewelry industry considers even moderately-included gems “desirable.”
* Emeralds: Emerald hues range from yellow-green to blue-green. The most valuable stones are pure green. Considered the birthstone of the month of May, emeralds are also the anniversary gemstone of the 20th, 35th and 55th year of marriage. Emeralds lend themselves to elaborate carving and inscription because of their composition.
* Rubies: Traditionally considered the most valuable gemstone, rubies are the birthstone for the month of July and traditional 15th and 40th year anniversary presents. Ruby hues range between orange-red and purple-red.
* Sapphires: Sapphires represent September birthdays a well as 5th and 45th wedding anniversaries. Hue ranges from blue-green to blue-purple, but sapphires also come in many other colors including colorless, white, yellow, orange, pink, brown, and black.
Rubies, emeralds, and sapphires usually undergo treatments to enhance color and fill cracks. The jewelry industry considers treatment of these three gemstones standard practice.
* Oil & resin gemstone treatments: Gemstones, like emeralds and rubies, are frequently treated with oils and resins. Time and excessive heat can cause this filler to break down, requiring the gems to be professionally repaired.
* Gemstone heat treatment: Sapphires and rubies frequently are treated with heat. This process permanently enhances color without changing the stone’s structure.
* Chemical or “diffusion treatment” for gemstones: On a less frequent basis, gems can be treated with cobalt, beryllium or other elements to enhance apparent color. However, this only changes the surface of the stone. A scratch can reveal the lighter hue underneath.
Evaluate Gemstone Color
When shopping for gemstones pay close attention to color. Unlike diamonds, different gemstones have different densities, rendering carat weight useless as an accurate measurement of size (to determine size, look at diameter, length, and width measured in millimeters). In other words, a lighter weight gem with even color may be more valuable than a heavier gem. Also, the color of good stones can mask inclusions more than in diamonds. You should look for three aspects of color:
* Hue: Hue is the unique color of the gemstone. While almost all stones have some shades of other colors, the most valuable stones present the purest hue: red rubies, green emeralds and either blue or pink sapphires.
* Tone: Tone is the depth of a gemstone color, from colorless to black. Tone is described on a scale that ranges from light to medium to dark. The most valuable stones range from medium-light to medium-dark
* Saturation: Saturation is the purity of the color throughout the gemstone. A gem that is free of gray or brown hues is said to be strongly saturated and is more valuable than a stone with lower saturation. Saturation often determines the cut of a gemstone. A high-quality gem cut delivers an even color throughout the stone and exposes the fewest inclusions.
Stones with a deep, saturated color look best and are most valuable with a shallow cut that allows consistent, bright color. A stone with less color saturation should be cut more deeply to let more light into the stone for sparkle. Symmetry (the balance of the gem’s facets) and polish (the surface smoothness of a gem) also affect the sparkle of the gem and can enhance or detract from its value.
How to Maintain Your Gemstones
Make sure your gemstones stay in tip-top shape with a few simple steps. Jewels need space to remain free of chips. Store gems individually in soft cloth pouches and prevent jewels from bumping against one another.
Clean your gemstones
Dust, skin oil and other unclean substances can cause your diamond or gems to lose their sparkle. Clean your gems from time to time in soap and water. Air dry and polish with a soft cloth. Occasional brushing with a worn, soft-bristled toothbrush can help remove dirt from between crevices. Remember to treat metal settings gently; gold can scratch. For more resistant blemishes, use a weak solution of ammonia and water (about one part to four parts) and a soft brush.
Take your gemstones to the jeweler
Annual checkups with a jeweler help keep your gemstones clean and properly situated in their settings. A jeweler can clean gems with steam or ultrasound, though ultrasound can make internal fissures or flaws worse.
Although four-prong, six-prong, and low-profile channel or bezel settings offer your gemstone more protection than other settings, you should ask your jeweler to make sure your gemstones are still sitting tight in their settings to help prevent stones from falling out.
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